It’s hard not to fall in love with Edinburgh. It’s old but beaming with life. It’s one of those places where everything looks historic—and is—yet approachable and welcoming at the same time. I spent the day wandering around the city, getting my bearings and a sense of its scale. Edinburgh’s population is around 500,000, about the size of Kansas City, so it’s actually quite manageable. Every fifth shop in Old Town is a tweed, tartan, or whiskey purveyor, much like the predictable frequency of tourist shops on Fisherman’s Wharf selling crab-themed souvenirs, but more charming. And in some cases, useful.
The day’s first stop was Holyrood Palace, 900 years old, full of history, and former home of Mary Queen of Scots. That is, of course, until she was captured, imprisoned for 19 years, and beheaded. It’s a working palace, replete with a cafe in the courtyard, which is just about the only thing that’s not 900 years old. The palace is adorned with Unicorns, and these things are everywhere in Edinburgh. According to the National Museum of Scotland, only a king could hold a unicorn captive, and the unicorn became the symbol of purity and power that Scottish kings and nobility identified with in the 15th Century. Over time, this led to the unicorn becoming officially recognized as Scotland’s national animal.In terms of food, Edinburgh made a great first impression. My first real meal was at Makars Gourmet Mash Bar in Old Town. Braised beef with a dark onion gravy served on top of cheddar and chive mash—Scottish comfort food. Ended the day at the Jolly Judge with a dram(s).